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Intruder Alarms Installation Advice.

For a quick guide on what system to choose please check our Burglar Alarms Comparison Chart

Please find alarm specific advice at our Alarms Manuals Section.


 Planning the Layout:

 

The most important step in installing your intruder alarm system is to plan correctly. This is normally done by drawing a floor plan of the building, then you need to decide what areas to cover with the wireless alarm system, (Main entry points, rooms, windows and vulnerable parts of the building, it’s also useful to walk around the building and look for these points). From that information you can then decide what type of alarm panel and how many zones are needed. (You should try to pick an alarm panel with extra zones to allow for future expansion).

Now you have the main intruder alarms areas (zones) of the system decided you can think about where to position the panel and/or remote keypad if used. You then need to decide where to mount the sensors for the best coverage of your property, and decide where to mount the external bellbox.


Intruder alarms from UK security supplier.

 


 

Burglar Alarms Comparison Chart - Click here to check.
Burglar alarm burglar alarms from esp. Burglar alarms

●= PIR

= Contact Detector

intruder alarms

 

 

intruder alarms

Upstairs

 

●= PIR

= Contact Detector

 

Intruder Alarm Grade Classifications.

The grading of a system based on a structured risk analysis will determine the:

  • Extent of the system
  • Signalling
  • Tamper security

Within the new European Standards there are four security grades:

  • Grade 1 intruder alarms - Premises in standard risk areas with standard amount of content value. Grade 1 system intruders are expected to have little knowledge of intruder alarm systems and be limited to a range of easily available tools.

 

  • Grade 2  intruder alarms- Premises with large a degree of valuables and equipment. Premises in areas of medium risk. Grade 2 system expects intruders to have a limited knowledge of intruder alarm systems and the use of a general range of tools.

 

  • Grade 3 intruder alarms- Premises with large a degree of valuables and equipment in high risk areas. Grade 3 system expects intruders to be conversant with intruder alarm systems and have access to a comprehensive range of tools. 

 

  • Grade 4  intruder alarms - Premises with fire arms, a large a degree of valuables and equipment in maximum risk areas. Grade 4 system is where security takes precedence over all other factors.  At this level intruders are expected to have the ability and resources to plan an intrusion in detail and have a full range of specialised equipment, including means of substitution of vital components within the intruder alarm system.  As you can see systems are evaluated against the risk of the level of intruder that may attack the system hence the requirement that system design meets the appropriate grade.

 

Other things to think about:-

Should the main panel (end station) be hidden just leaving a keypad on show? (Using a system with an end station and remote keypad looks neater and is also more secure than control panel on the wall in full view.)
 

Consider fitting a few Smoke/Heat Detectors in suitable locations as part of the intruder alarms.


Try to mount the PIR’s in suitable positions to avoid false alarms from heaters, windows and post coming through the letterbox, etc.

Bellbox Positioning:

 

This should be mounted on the front of the building or a location where it will be in full view of neighbours and passers by, as the very sight of it would be a deterrent to many would be burglars. The Bellbox should be placed high enough on the building to be out of easy reach. If you have a siren with a solar panel, please ensure this is on a south facing wall if possible and mount the bellbox as high as possible to catch the low sun in winter. Place dummy siren on another side of your building if your property is north facing.

Intruder alarms Control Panel:-

Ideally the control panel needs to be located fairly close to the main entry/exit point. It should be positioned out of reach of smaller children.

 

Do not fit the panel onto combustible material.

PIR Detectors:-

Where possible it is advised not to mount standard PIR detectors where they could face sources of infra-red light emissions such as windows, fires, filament lamps and heat sources such as radiators and heaters, as these could occasionally trigger the sensor causing false alarms.

 

Also consider your PETS, consider other methods of detection to areas where pets/animals will have access during the times the alarm system is set. If PIR type sensors must be used then try to get the PET IMMUNE type. Make sure all PIRs are switched from test mode to normal mode after testing.

 

Smoke/Heat Detectors:-

Consider mounting at least a couple of Smoke/Heat detectors as part of your Alarm System. At least two are recommended, one in the hall and one on the landing but every home is different so decide the best locations for your home. Try to fit Heat detectors in locations where smoke is an un-avoidable occurrence, such as in the kitchen (You don't want the alarm going off every time you burn the toast!).

Door Contacts:-

These are normally fitted to all external doors but can be fitted to any vulnerable door or window as required.

 

Intruder alarms - Programming the system:-

Now all there is left to do is programme the intruder alarms with zone descriptions, zone types, entry/exit time, bell time, codes etc…. To ensure all zones are functionally correct you can usually enter “walk test” mode on the control panel. And to ensure the speakers, bell box and strobe all function correctly you can usually enter “test mode” on the control panel

To test your system the best way is to set it and try to gain entry without triggering the alarm system, if all has been planed and installed correctly this should not be possible!

Many thanks to Dave Avery of  thesecurityinstaller.co.uk  for his large contribution to this article.

FAQs.

Q:  What is a PIR and how many do I need?
A:  PIRs detect movement by detecting changes in heat caused by a person moving within the devices detection zone.             Basic Rule: Protect major rooms and access routes, (e.g. Lounge, Study, hallway, landing etc).
Q:  What is a Magnetic Door Contact and how many do I need?
A:  Magnetic Door Contacts are used to protect doors and windows. It will detect when the door or window is opened.              Basic Rule: Protect major external doorways and windows if not already protected by a PIR, (e.g. Front & Back doors, Patio Doors etc).
  What is a Remote Control?
A:  The Remote Control allows you to simply Arm and Disarm your security system from any location (within range) and from outside the property. It includes panic button facility.
Q: What does a wireless alarm control panel do?
A:  The Control Panel is the heart of the intruder alarm system and contains the microprocessor and electronic circuitry necessary to monitor the various detection circuits (zones) and to initiate an alarm condition in the event of an intrusion into a protected area. It incorporates an internal sounder. It allows all user configurable settings to be programmed
Q:  What is a Solar Siren?
A:  Solar Powered External Siren that includes a high capacity rechargeable back-up batteries for operation during darkness. It will operate for up to for 40 days in standby without sunlight. It includes LED indicators which show that system is operational which act as an additional visible deterrent.
Q:  What tools do I need to fit the wireless alarm?
A:  You only need conventional DIY tools - No.0 + 1 Philips Screwdrivers. Drill, 5 & 6mm masonry drill bits. Small Spirit Level.
Q:  Can the Wireless intruder alarms be extended for even greater protection?
A:  Yes, additional PIR and Magnetic Contact Detectors can be added to your system to protect additional areas and doors or windows in your house. Extra Remote Controls and Keypads are also available.
Q:  Why doesn’t the LED flash when the Wireless PIR is triggered?
A:  When configured for normal operation the LED will not flash when movement is detected in order to conserve battery power and maximise battery life. If the LED does flash then this indicates a low battery level. However if the PIR is configured in Walk Test mode the LED will flash on movement detection.
Q:  In the event of a power failure will the intruder alarm system continue to operate?
A:  Yes, control panels are supplied with rechargeable back-up batteries fitted. These will power the system (depending upon battery condition and use in the event of a power failure).
Q:  In the event of a power failure will I have to reprogram the control panel?
A:  No all our control panels incorporate a non-volatile memory (NVM) that will hold any information indefinitely.
Q:  What is the battery life in the wirefree sensors?
A:  General battery life is quoted as 1 to 3 years. Logisty system have 5 year life lithium batteries.
Q:  What is the life of the solar siren battery?
A:  The life of the lead acid battery in the siren is generally between 2 and 5 years depending on usage and conditions. AEI quote 10 Years.
Q:  How many sensors can you fit on to intruder alarms?
A:  There is no limit to the number of sensors that can installed on our wireless alarm systems.
Q:  What is the range of the radio signals for the wirefree alarm systems?
A:  The general range for wireless alarm components is 75m. Except the Remote controls and Keypads which have a range of 50m.

This range is measured in ideal conditions. Any solid object (e.g. walls, ceilings, reinforced PVC doors etc) placed between the transmitter and receiver devices will reduce the transmission range, the amount of which the range will be reduced is dependant upon the nature of the barrier. e.g.

Wall Type Range Reduction
Dry-lined partition wall: 10-30%
Single layer brick wall: 20-40%
Double layer brick wall: 30-70%
Metal Panel/Radiator: 90-100%

Note: The effect on the range of multiple walls is cumulative. i.e. if there are two brick walls in the way, the range will be reduced by up to 40% by each wall.
Q:  Are all wireless intruder alarms products tamper protected?
A:  Yes, all wireless alarm systems and accessories are tamper protected, with the exception of the Remote Control.

 

Experiencing a burglary – it's not simply a matter of chance. Burglars have one thing in common – they want easy pickings and will avoid properties where they feel they could run into difficulties.

It’s a sad fact that approximately 30% of those who purchase intruder alarms only do so after they, or someone close to them, has experienced a burglary.

So, if you don’t want to keep a burglar in business, it's important to weigh up the risks and possible options for securing your home before it becomes a crime statistic. Good preventative security measures will greatly reduce the likelihood of experiencing the trauma of a burglary and increase peace of mind when you are away.

But what is the risk of being burgled?
Crime statistics show that over 1 million burglaries take place every year in the UK.(1) In another survey, 28% of respondents said that they had been burgled at home at some time.(2) Research also reveals that, once a burglary has taken place, criminals are quite likely to target the property again.(3)

(1) Home Office British Crime Survey
(2) Mintel International Group Ltd Special Report on the UK Security Market
(3) Home Office Statistical Bulletin, Issue

Where do burglaries occur?
Data suggests that urban areas are more at risk than rural districts. Burglars also seem to be influenced by how readily their activities can be observed by neighbours, if they can get to the house under cover, if there are a number of escape routes and if the house is readily accessible from the rear. And they are always on the look-out for a house that appears to be empty.

Proof that burglars are deterred by alarm systems.
Burglars are also strongly influenced by the presence of security measures, either in terms of avoiding the house entirely or quickly losing heart when they attempt a break-in. In one study, the majority of offenders rejected one house as a potential target purely because it had an alarm.(4)

  • A considerable proportion of burglary attempts take place while someone is in the house. intruder alarms can be used to prevent this occurring, for example at night, as well as to protect the house when it is empty. A wireless alarm can even be part-set to cover areas of the house that you are not occupying at any given time.
    •
  • Intruder alarms can cope with pets.
  • Detection of fire and carbon monoxide can also be incorporated into wireless alarms.
  • Wireless alarm systems can include fixed or portable panic buttons, invaluable if there is an intruder in the house – a typical location for one of these might be the bedroom.
  • A wireless alarm can also show you if an entry has been attempted.
  • Myths dispelled
    Wireless alarms are easy to use. 90% of those asked in a recent British Security Industry Association (BSIA) survey said that they found their     intruder alarms easy to set, and 92% were satisfied with their alarm systems.

 
Part P of the Building Regulations 2005.
Intruder alarms and new regulations.

Millions of householders across England and Wales face hefty fines if they continue to call in favours from handy ‘'DIY Dads’. A new law, Part P of course, now requires all significant electrical work carried out in the home to be undertaken by a qualified electrician or checked by local authority building inspectors. British Gas looks at Part P from its perspective, and that of householders:

 
Now that Part P of the Building Regulations is reality, new rules apply, and most householders do not know that they could be breaking the law and risk a fine of up to £5,000. This is after research revealed that a staggering 61% of householders are unaware of the imminent changes.

The figures released today by British Gas, whose electricians carry out over 140,000 jobs in homes across Britain every year, also show that the transition could prove difficult for many of the country's DIYers.

According to the research* 56% of people turn first to their own family for help with electrical jobs around the house or simply go ahead and do it themselves. Of the 42 million electrical jobs carried out in the home last year only a third involved a qualified electrician.

Government figures show that 10 people die and 750 are seriously injured each year in accidents involving faulty electrics. However, the British Gas research finds that nearly 5 million of us admit to having suffered an electric shock or accident as a result of attempting DIY electrics. The new law will mean electrical installations are subject to Building Regulations and should help to cut the number of accidents as well as flush out cowboy traders.

Neil Dickinson, Chief Electrical Engineer at British Gas, said: "These new regulations should do for the electrical industry what Corgi has done for the gas industry - raise standards and improve safety. DIY enthusiasts will still be able to carry out some minor jobs around the home but our advice would be to check first with a qualified electrician. Doing it yourself could put you at risk of a serious injury, never mind the wrath of the local building inspector."

LibDem MP Dr Jenny Tonge, who tragically lost her daughter in an electrical accident in the home earlier this year, also welcomed the changes: "Having been involved so directly in such a terrible tragedy I strongly support any initiative which might reduce the number of deaths, injuries and fires caused by unsafe electrical wiring."

A quick guide from British Gas:

To help homeowners stay on the right side of the law British Gas has compiled a quick guide to the new regulations (also available at www.britishgassafety.co.uk):

From 1st January 2005, people carrying out electrical work in homes and gardens in England and Wales will have to follow new rules in the Building Regulations. All electrical work carried out in the home will have to be undertaken by a registered installer or be approved and certified by the local authority's Building Control department. Failure to do so will be a legal offence and could result in a fine. Non-certified work could also put your household insurance policy at risk If you can't provide evidence that any electrical installation work is compliant you could have problems when it comes to selling the property. There will be two ways to prove compliance:

A certificate showing the work has been done by a government approved electrical installer such as British Gas A certificate from the local authority saying that the installation has approval under the Building Regulations. Homeowners will still be able to do some minor electrical jobs themselves. The following table is a useful reference:

Examples of Work - Can I do it myself?

Wireless Alarm System - Yes, if not adding a new circuit. All of the wireless alarm systems found on this website do not need a new circuit.

Complete new or rewiring job - No.

Fuse box change - No.

Replacing existing accessories such as lights, sockets outlets, ceiling roses, switches, fused spurs etc - Yes.

Adding lighting points to an existing circuit in a "special location" like the kitchen, bathroom or garden - No.

Adding lighting points to an existing circuit in other locations like dining rooms, lounges or bedrooms - Yes.

Installing electrical earth connections to pipework and metalwork - No.

Disconnecting and reconnecting existing equipment - Yes.

Adding a new circuit - No.

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